This is kind of an oversimplification of a complex subject, but I tried to make it easy to understand.
There are two main types of disc brake pads: Organic and Metallic.
Organic pads (sometimes called resin pads) are the most common on new bikes. They are made of an organic material (ground cashew shells on some pads) mixed with an epoxy. They work well because they have a good 'grippy' feel when braking and they create less noise. They are also less expensive than a metallic pad. However, they don't deal well with extreme heat generated by the brake system and they wear faster.
Metallic pads (sometimes called sintered or semi-metallic) are designed for heavy duty use and are less common on new bikes. They are made of copper, brass, and/or steel mixed with epoxy. They work well in messy conditions - mud, sand, and rain and last much longer than organic pads. The downside is that they make much more noise and will wear rotors faster.
Manufacturers may offer pads attached to a different backing plate material. These backing plates can be aluminum, copper, titanium, or steel. Although weight may be different between each, the reason to choose one over the other is it's ability to dissipate heat. An alloy backer will dissipate heat quicker and is preferred in prolonged hard braking situations. Ability to shed heat decreases from alloy to copper to titanium, with steel having the least ability to dissipate heat.
Replacement brake pads should be chosen based on conditions (dry or wet) and heat dissipation. If someone uses an organic pad with a steel backer on a long, steep downhill it's possible that the pad will glaze over from the heat and will result in loss of braking power. On the other hand, there's not any need to use a steel pad in dry conditions as it will result in a lot of unnecessary noise and quick rotor wear.
SRAM recommends pads be replaced when the material + the backer thickness is less than 3mm.
Shimano recommends pads be replaced when the pad material is less than .5mm.
Pads contaminated with oil must be replaced. No amount of sanding will fix them, and it's a liability to recommend anything but replacement, regardless of what is shown online.
All new pads should be bedded in by speeding up to 15mph, then using a single brake to slow down without locking up the brake. Repeat this 15-20 times per brake.
When changing pads to a different material, new rotors are highly recommend and sometimes required by the manufacturer. Keep in mind that if the rotor has been bedded in with a certain pad it will not bed properly with a different type of pad.
Of course, there are always exceptions to these rules but this represents the basics. If you have a question, feel free to leave a comment.
There are two main types of disc brake pads: Organic and Metallic.
Organic pads (sometimes called resin pads) are the most common on new bikes. They are made of an organic material (ground cashew shells on some pads) mixed with an epoxy. They work well because they have a good 'grippy' feel when braking and they create less noise. They are also less expensive than a metallic pad. However, they don't deal well with extreme heat generated by the brake system and they wear faster.
Metallic pads (sometimes called sintered or semi-metallic) are designed for heavy duty use and are less common on new bikes. They are made of copper, brass, and/or steel mixed with epoxy. They work well in messy conditions - mud, sand, and rain and last much longer than organic pads. The downside is that they make much more noise and will wear rotors faster.
Manufacturers may offer pads attached to a different backing plate material. These backing plates can be aluminum, copper, titanium, or steel. Although weight may be different between each, the reason to choose one over the other is it's ability to dissipate heat. An alloy backer will dissipate heat quicker and is preferred in prolonged hard braking situations. Ability to shed heat decreases from alloy to copper to titanium, with steel having the least ability to dissipate heat.
Replacement brake pads should be chosen based on conditions (dry or wet) and heat dissipation. If someone uses an organic pad with a steel backer on a long, steep downhill it's possible that the pad will glaze over from the heat and will result in loss of braking power. On the other hand, there's not any need to use a steel pad in dry conditions as it will result in a lot of unnecessary noise and quick rotor wear.
SRAM recommends pads be replaced when the material + the backer thickness is less than 3mm.
Shimano recommends pads be replaced when the pad material is less than .5mm.
Pads contaminated with oil must be replaced. No amount of sanding will fix them, and it's a liability to recommend anything but replacement, regardless of what is shown online.
All new pads should be bedded in by speeding up to 15mph, then using a single brake to slow down without locking up the brake. Repeat this 15-20 times per brake.
When changing pads to a different material, new rotors are highly recommend and sometimes required by the manufacturer. Keep in mind that if the rotor has been bedded in with a certain pad it will not bed properly with a different type of pad.
Of course, there are always exceptions to these rules but this represents the basics. If you have a question, feel free to leave a comment.
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