Skip to main content

Lefty fork revive

The other day I had the opportunity to overhaul a Cannondale Lefty fork.  I've had mixed luck with these in the past, confounded by Cannondale's lack of instructions, spare parts, and poor customer service.  That notwithstanding, I've been anxious to master these tricky forks.  A quick review of them online returns mixed results , but the general consensus is that they work great until it's time for service, but then it's a crapshoot.
Let me start by saying that when I say 'poor customer service' , that means that Cannondale's answer to fixing your 5 year old Lefty many times is 'send it back and we'll sell you a new one for $800 (give or take,depending on model). A good deal (maybe) if you have a trashed 12 year old fork that has never been serviced, but not for a 5 year old fork that only needs one new bearing race and some o rings.  I think their people on the inside try hard, but Cannondale doesn't have systems in place to help dealers and consumers service Lefty forks.  Definitely a far cry from Fox and Rockshox.*
Back to the point though:  I successfully overhauled a 2006 Lefty, making it work like new again.  It compresses smoothly through its travel now, the rebound adjuster gives a wide range of control, and the lockout works properly.  Most important though, it now holds air. The full service was time consuming because the damper needs to be free of any air and it takes a while to get it all out.  Even though we likely didn't make any money because it took so long, it was valuable experience and one that I'm calling a 'WIN' anyway.
If this were being used on an 'A' bike, I would have recommended he replace the entire cartridge.  Since this is just a backup that won't get much use, he decided to fix his old one instead of spending $300** for a new cartridge.  In the picture below notice the wear on the on the upper damper shaft.  The lower leg had similar wear at the bottom of the bearing races. That's an indication of heavy use and long service intervals.  Although it might seep slight amounts of oil when it's used, it won't see enough trail time for that to matter. Customer is happy because his lockout works and it now holds air again.

So a successful Lefty service and a happy customer.  A great way to start the summer!

*my issues here are with lack of parts availability, lack of instructions/parts diagrams, and the general vagueness of servicing Lefty forks.  Most of my interactions with the people inside Cannondale are good, there's just not much they can do many times.  Watch for a post later that will explain this in better detail.
**includes cartridge, solo air piston,clips, spacers, etc to convert to the newest cartridge.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

What is Kashima Coating?

Kashima coating is a feature currently only found on Fox forks and shocks*.  It's easy to spot from it's distinctive dark brown color.  What is it and why do they use it?  First, a quick definition: Anodizing is a process by which a metal part (normally aluminum) is electrically charged and submerged in a chemical bath.  This creates an oxide layer that penetrates the metal and changes the microscopic texture and the crystal structure of the metal near the surface.  After a part is treated, it can be dyed to give it color before it is sealed to increase durability. Hard anodizing is a similar procedure that penetrates further into the metal. This increases the surface hardness of the material making the surface even more durable and corrosion resistant.  It does not make the metal part stronger, it affects the durability of the surface of the metal. Kashima coating is a type of hard anodizing that involves a lubricating treatment as well.  This not only substantially dec

1986 Fuji Restoration

I just picked up this 1986 Fuji Sagres to restore.  This has been one of my all time favorite bikes and one I've been searching for a long time.  It's gonna be a long term project since it doesn't have the original gunmetal grey Ukai rims and gunmetal grey handlebar tape.  I'd like to pick up some original 27" SCCR Fuji tires too, but that may be asking a bit much. I'm not sure why I've always like this so much.  Maybe the color, maybe it was a good seller for us at the shop back then.  It would have been the year before I started working at the shop so it could have been old inventory or that we just worked on a few of them the following years.  I remember always wanting one, probably has a lot to do with the color.  It's one of the last to have been made in Japan and features quad-butted Valite tubing.  These were decent riding bikes and reasonably priced at about $325 if I remember correctly. So why the big deal about a mid 80's Fuji?  The s

Disc Brake Pad Differences

This is kind of an oversimplification of a complex subject, but I tried to make it easy to understand. There are two main types of disc brake pads:  Organic and Metallic. Organic pads (sometimes called resin pads) are the most common on new bikes.  They are made of an organic material (ground cashew shells on some pads) mixed with an epoxy.  They work well because they have a good 'grippy' feel when braking and they create less noise.  They are also less expensive than a metallic pad.  However, they don't deal well with extreme heat generated by the brake system and they wear faster. Metallic pads (sometimes called sintered or semi-metallic) are designed for heavy duty use and are less common on new bikes.   They are made of copper, brass, and/or steel mixed with epoxy.  They work well in messy conditions - mud, sand, and rain and last much longer than organic pads.  The downside is that they make much more noise and will wear rotors faster. Manufacturers may offer