Skip to main content

What's 4130 Chromoly?

This posting is a shortened version of a technical paper I wrote for work. I hope you enjoy, and learn in the process!

At one time, all bikes were made of steel.  Steel has been popular thanks to its strength to weight ratio and ease of use.  These factors as well as it’s low cost and availability make it ideal for use in bicycles.  The most common type of steel used for bikes is chromoly, and 4130 chromoly is the most widely recognized.  So what does chromoly mean and what do the numbers 4130 refer to?

Steel is an alloy of iron and other metals.  The term ‘alloy’ is commonly used to refer to aluminum but it actually refers to any metal that’s mixed with other elements in order to achieve the desired mechanical properties such as strength, weight, durability, hardness, weldablitly, etc.  'Chromoly' refers to a specific type of steel alloy that combines Iron with Chromium and Molybdenum (chro-moly, get it?) along with small amounts of other metals.  Changing these small amounts of other metals in the alloy creates grades of chromoly with different mechanical properties and costs.  These steel alloys are identified by four digit codes set forth by the American Iron & Steel Institute (AISI) and are defined by their approximate chemical composition. 

In ‘4130 Chromoly’,  the "41" means that it is a low alloy steel containing chromium and molybdenum (about 1% and 0.2% respectively). The "30" indicates a carbon content of 0.30%.* These small percentages don't seem like much, but changing the amounts only slightly will affect mechanical properties of the steel quite a bit. For comparison, in '4340 chromoly', '43' means that it contains 0.8% Chromium and 0.25% molybdenum. The '40' indicates a carbon content of 0.4%. 4340 is a much stronger and harder steel alloy that is more difficult to bend and cut, plus it's a bit heavier than 4130. It costs more as well.

Since most steel bikes constructed in similar fashion when they’re built, 4130 Chromoly happens to have the best mechanical properties for use in bicycle frame building, and the low cost makes it ideal.  There are other chromoly alloys that are stronger, but they are more difficult to cut, bend, shape, and weld than 4130, or they are more costly.

It is widely thought that companies like Reynolds, Columbus, Deda, and Tange (among others) have their own formulas for steel alloys.  Actually, name brand tubing is normally off the shelf 4130 chromoly tubing that they will then make into double or triple butted tubing with butted sections in different lengths.  They are then sold as tubing sets designed for specific ride qualities (and sometimes rider sizes).  Newer name brand steel tubing sets (Reynolds 853 for example) offer technology that relates to how the tubing is annealed or hardened - this offers more resistance to weld and brazing weakness than others.  This allows for lighter, stronger frames.

I hope this offers some useful information about what 4130 chromoly is and why it's used for bikes. Want the full document with more information about different types of steel, including name brand steel (Reynolds, Columbus, etc), cheap department store steel bikes, and a comparison between 4130 and other steel? Send me a message and I'll forward the entire document to you.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

What is Kashima Coating?

Kashima coating is a feature currently only found on Fox forks and shocks*.  It's easy to spot from it's distinctive dark brown color.  What is it and why do they use it?  First, a quick definition: Anodizing is a process by which a metal part (normally aluminum) is electrically charged and submerged in a chemical bath.  This creates an oxide layer that penetrates the metal and changes the microscopic texture and the crystal structure of the metal near the surface.  After a part is treated, it can be dyed to give it color before it is sealed to increase durability. Hard anodizing is a similar procedure that penetrates further into the metal. This increases the surface hardness of the material making the surface even more durable and corrosion resistant.  It does not make the metal part stronger, it affects the durability of the surface of the metal. Kashima coating is a type of hard anodizing that involves a lubricating treatment as well.  This not only substantially dec

1986 Fuji Restoration

I just picked up this 1986 Fuji Sagres to restore.  This has been one of my all time favorite bikes and one I've been searching for a long time.  It's gonna be a long term project since it doesn't have the original gunmetal grey Ukai rims and gunmetal grey handlebar tape.  I'd like to pick up some original 27" SCCR Fuji tires too, but that may be asking a bit much. I'm not sure why I've always like this so much.  Maybe the color, maybe it was a good seller for us at the shop back then.  It would have been the year before I started working at the shop so it could have been old inventory or that we just worked on a few of them the following years.  I remember always wanting one, probably has a lot to do with the color.  It's one of the last to have been made in Japan and features quad-butted Valite tubing.  These were decent riding bikes and reasonably priced at about $325 if I remember correctly. So why the big deal about a mid 80's Fuji?  The s

Disc Brake Pad Differences

This is kind of an oversimplification of a complex subject, but I tried to make it easy to understand. There are two main types of disc brake pads:  Organic and Metallic. Organic pads (sometimes called resin pads) are the most common on new bikes.  They are made of an organic material (ground cashew shells on some pads) mixed with an epoxy.  They work well because they have a good 'grippy' feel when braking and they create less noise.  They are also less expensive than a metallic pad.  However, they don't deal well with extreme heat generated by the brake system and they wear faster. Metallic pads (sometimes called sintered or semi-metallic) are designed for heavy duty use and are less common on new bikes.   They are made of copper, brass, and/or steel mixed with epoxy.  They work well in messy conditions - mud, sand, and rain and last much longer than organic pads.  The downside is that they make much more noise and will wear rotors faster. Manufacturers may offer